Rotary Club of Hong Kong South International Service Report

After 3 aborted attempts because of weather conditions, it was finally possible to make the crossing. because of the short notice our group consisted of only 3 people. It was a trip none of us will forget easily.

We were invited by Caritas Macau who look after this clinic, for a fact-finding visit. We were welcomed at the Macau ferry by Father Luis: 86 years old, an amazing person and Father Gregory as well as Mr. Lei, the builder in charge of the leprosery, these last two were to accompany us for the day. From a small jetty just outside Zhuhai, we sailed on an old boat, but with a powerful motor. The sea was smooth, the horizon swallowed by mist. Quite a number of small fishing vessels surrounded us, like black ink drawings in the gray mists. To our amazement we encountered two pink dolphins as well!

After a 40-minute journey we arrived at Tai Kam: seemingly at the edge of the world. American "Mary Knoll" Brothers erected a few buildings here 70 years ago. These were still in good condition and were easily renovated. During the Japanese occupation and the communist take over soon afterwards, the Order had to withdraw to Macau. The leprosarium dilapidated totally. At that time 500 patients were living there, subsisting on RMB 150 per month for all their needs. Their families had cast them out and most locals were scared to have too much to do with them en they are poor fishermen themselves. Without any treatment or hygiene it became a hell, where people died of the disease and starvation.

Rats were everywhere and attacked people at night, who did not notice until too late, because this disease makes one loose all sensation of pain in the extremities.

About one and a half years ago, Caritas Macau could be involved again running the institution. They support a team of four nurses with helpers from the local community. When we arrived, everyone able to walk was waiting to greet us on the pier: it is not often they receive any visitors.

These patients do not suffer from the acute stage of the disease, so they are not contagious. Most are horribly disfigured; a great proportion is blind, all miss fingers, a foot or a leg. It took a moment to adjust to their appearance: it seemed as if we walked onto the scene of a Fellinni picture. But everyone was so happy to see us and than one forgets appearances quickly. At the moment there are 120 people living there, some of them for 50 years or more, none of them ever leave the island. The eldest is 94 years old.

After lunch we went into the village to explore. The nurses have scrubbed the place amazingly clean. There were still a few old blocks left, about to be demolished. This showed very clearly how horrible the place must have been not that long ago. Mr. Lei told us how at first he did tell any friends he was working here, how he did not dare drink the water or use the toilet. The first building they renovated had to be cleaned first. It took a fortnight to remove the dirt of 30 years. The smell was horrible; they had to pause frequently. Mr. Lei has performed a miracle in 1½ years: the nurses home is as new, the living quarters for everyone have beautiful tiled floors, the windowpanes have glass for the first time ever. Outside smooth paths have been laid down, easy for people on crutches and sometimes two artificial legs.

The communal kitchen provides a healthy diet, before everyone had their own little fire and lived of rice and vegetables. Only 500 gram of meat was available per person per month. Some manage to do a little fishing or keep chickens. Behind the village were a few tilled fields with vegetables and banana trees. An oil generator provides electricity and they were so fortunate to have a good source of clean water from the mountain on the island, which is now piped in to all buildings.

Father Gregory held a mass, while Mr. Lei showed us round. This is not a mission post as such to convert people and most are not Christian. Men sat in front of the old abandoned church, playing mahjong. The surroundings are absolutely beautiful: wonderful seascapes, idyllic beach, the sun came through eventually, but these people have a life sentence. No family ever comes to visit them; they are completely dependent on the goodwill of others.

The nursing staff can not be praised enough. These are such nice women doing amazing work: hardly any holidays, cooking and looking after 120 old age invalids. The good news is that this generation of lepra sufferers will die out, the younger people get correct treatment at an earlier stage of the disease. They will not be as handicapped and will be able to lead a more normal life inside the community. This leprosarium has twice already taken in patients from other institutions.

People are in rags, but seem happy. They have suffered so much: starvation, attacks by rats. Now they have a clean bed, proper food and loving care. They would never be able to come back to society.

Father Luis would like to make this island a showcase of what can be done for these people. He has seen much worse in other places. There is need for everything that one can think of: clean water, electricity, food, roofs on buildings etc. Last year he visited an area near Tibet. He was 85 years old at the time and some of the trip had to be done with a cart with oxen!

As we left the little harbour, people were singing on the pier, this was one of the most touching moments of this day. The sea was less calm, no dolphins this time, we were tossed around on the little boat: everyone silent, thinking about this amazing day.

Caroline M. Kooij